Climbing Mount Meru

28/10/2020 by ree pashley 2 Comments

My trek + tips for climbing Mt Meru, Tanzania’s second-highest mountain

I have been dreaming of climbing Mt Meru since I first arrived in Arusha, Tanzania. This majestic volcano looms over everything in Arusha; a mighty background in every scene. In the evenings, it catches the setting sun just right and reflects a magical, golden hue. At dawn, the sunrise backlights the great mountain, making it appear bolder, darker and more impressive.

Throughout the seasons, clouds hover around it and occasionally, snow is visible at the top. Mount Meru is a natural feature of the Arusha area, a reminder of the power of nature and the truth that Tanzania is a land of volcanoes. Of course I wanted to summit this beautiful beast and second-highest mountain in Tanzania!

Mt Meru (4,566 metres or 14,980 ft) is situated within Arusha National Park and is a dormant volcano. It last erupted in 1910, and the ash cone is considered active, with known lava flows (And that concludes what I understand about volcanoes!). While hiking this great mountain, the ash cone is almost constantly visible, proof of the molten lava hidden beneath the surface.

The Ash Cone. Photo courtesy of Paul Mosely.

The original size of Mt Meru has been estimated to rival even Mount Kilimanjaro. The eruption that removed the top of the volcano was found to have sent debris all the way to West Kilimanjaro! Over time, eruptions have collapsed the peak of Mt Meru, leaving a massive 5-kilometer crater to attest to the original size of the mountain. There are other craters, also, including Ngorondoto Crater, which is often described as a ‘mini Ngorongoro Crater’ because of similar features and density of animals within. The main crater has been cut from the top and is most clearly visible from the Southern side of Mount Meru, where the razor-edge ridgeline can take your breath away.

Some friends booked a climb and invited me to join them and I was delighted at the chance! Climbing with friends is always more fun and I knew I would enjoy not only the trek, but also at meal-times and during my stay in the huts if in the company of friends.

We climbed with Memorable Safaris. They arranged everything for our trek and we had awesome experienced guides, a fabulous cook and all the essentials needed for a Mt Meru climb.

Also, my camera has gone caput. I took as many photos as I could with my phone, but the best photos were taken by my fellow trekkers who have graciously agreed to share their photos with you all. Please share the love in the comments section for their great pictures!

Details for climbing Mount Meru:

All climbers stay in designated huts along the way. This preserves the environment of the volcano, ensures climbers have access to amenities (like water) and keeps the teams safe from dangerous animals. It also means you have less to carry! No sleeping mats or tents to haul up the mountain.
Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much from these huts – but they were great! nice mattresses, pillows, running water and solar power were all great surprises. Read more about the huts on Mt Meru here.
The final summit is a night climb, beginning around 1 or 2 am and finalizing in the late morning. You will return to basecamp for a rest and then have a late afternoon hike to descend back down. Depending on a 3 or 4-day itinerary, this descent is a full return or back to the first camp and finishing the trek back the following morning.
Mount Meru is within Arusha National Park, so all climbers must pay park fees for every day within the park limits.
We climbed with the 4-day trek, which I highly recommend. The other option is a 3-day trek, meaning the final day is a 16+ hr /33 km hike (mostly descent) done on very little sleep. Unless you have been training, save your knees and toes and go with an extra day!

Climb Summary:

Mount Meru is a majestic climb. Every day offers something new and the final summit was truly extraordinary. The second-highest mountain in Tanzania doesn’t get the limelight of Mt Kilimanjaro, but it is an impressive feat in its own right.
The first day is part walking safari, part Arusha National Park tour and a lovely gentle hike through a forest with Colobus Monkeys, gazelles, dik diks and tropical birds. It’s a 10+ kilometer hike, but done at a leisurely pace with plenty of shade.
Teams sleep at Miriakamba Hut the first night.

The second day is a steeper climb, entering alpine climate with no trees, just shrubs and strong sun (we did spot a Cape Buffalo in the distance and a Bush Buck grazing in the high hills). We saw eagles and brilliant sunbirds during our hike. Only 5 km, but a steeper gradient.
Teams sleep at Saddle Hut the second night.

The third day begins EARLY. We woke just after midnight to drink coffee and fuel up on carbs. We started trekking in the pitch black at 1 o’clock in the morning. It took us just over 5 hours to reach the summit, and we arrived just at sunrise, which is the goal.
It is approximately 9 km from Saddle Hut to the peak of Mt Meru (18 km total)
Trekking uphill through volcanic sand was difficult!
Climbing along the razor-edge of the crater was breathtaking.
Finally reaching the summit was incredible! Amazing views above the clouds, the highest altitude I’ve ever been (14,980 feet), and the most epic sunrise I’ve ever witnessed. I felt so proud of myself to have reached the top of Mt Meru, an impressive volcano and second-highest mountain in Tanzania, I rode that natural high all day.

It took us another 3.5 hours to trek back down (my poor knees feeling every bit of the descent!), and our guide said we were pretty fast, he was expecting 4 or more hours to return to camp.
After a much-needed nap, we put back on our hiking boots and trekked down to Miriakamba Hut again.
(that’s 5 km, plus the 18 km already trekked. Now, imagine hiking ALLLL the way back to the park entrance, another 12 km. My knees and poor bruised toes couldn’t handle that much down-hiking. I am glad we did a 4-day Meru trek)
I slept like a log the third night and was more than grateful for the comfortable mattress and private room at Miriakamba Huts.
The final (fourth day), I had a huge breakfast and completed the final descent back to Momella Gate, at the entrance to Arusha National Park. The best part? We got another walking safari! This time we walked to Tululusia Waterfall, walked beside a herd of Cape Buffalo and some warthogs (how are they both so ugly and so cute at the same time?) and spotted a baby giraffe (ahh!!!!). A perfect way to end a truly awesome Mt Meru trek.

Tips for climbing Mt Meru

Avoid drinking caffeine (coffee, energy drinks) on the second day, this will help you rest in the afternoon an evening before you start the final ascent.
Complete the acclimatization hike up to Little Meru (3801 m/12533 ft), even if you think you’re adapting to the altitude just fine.
DRINK LOTS OF WATER! This is hard when it’s so cold on the final summit, but force yourself. Dehydration headaches are the worst.

What to pack:

A Pillow Case: As the beds and pillows are used by all hikers, I would suggest packing a pillow case or small piece of cloth to cover the pillow. This very small item can make you more comfortable when using the provided pillow.
Ear Plugs: You need your rest for the night-summit, but it isn’t easy to sleep during the day. Every hallway conversation and each banging door disturbed me.
A Pack Towel: I was certain there would be no bathing options on the mountain, so I didn’t bring a towel – woops! Because there is running water you can take a basin-bath (or bucket-shower), so go ahead and bring a small travel towel and feel refreshed at the end of each hike.
Camp shoes: After hiking in your boots all day, you will want to give your feet a break. Simple sandals or light, loose-fitting shoes are perfect to walk around the camps and let your tired feet rest.
Gloves, Scarf and Hat: Yes, it is cold up there! You will be greatful for your warm accessories both at Saddle Hut camp as well as the summit, where it is very windy and temperatures can reach freezing.
Headlamp: Despite the solar-lights at each camp, you still must pack a headlamp for the final night-time climb to the summit.
Trekking poles: I did not climb Ol Doinyo Lengai with trekking poles, despite the steep incline. Why did I use them on Mt Meru? The sand. I was so thankful for the poles to help me drag myself through the sand on the final summit climb. Without them I would have been sliding down and wasting my energy making up lost footing.

Climbing Mt Meru was better than I imagined. I was so proud to achieve this life-goal, it was an adventure and a great trek + mini safari in Arusha National Park.

If you’re planning to visit Arusha, consider climbing Mt Meru and reach out to me for more tips and recommendations to have an awesome climb!

Read about my other climbs:
Ol Doinyo Lengai
Funny Climbing Team
Lengai photos
Longido Climb
Longido Photos

Climbing Ol Doinyo Lengai

24/06/2020 by ree pashley 4 Comments

The Weird, the Fun, the Annoying

The active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai offers a challenge for the adventurous traveler seeking to enjoy remote areas of Tanzania.

Lake Natron is located near the Kenyan border, but not close to an official immigration border crossing. In order to reach this beautiful destination, travelers should either take a bumping road between Mtu wa Mbu (near Manyara National Park), or a bit of a longer, but somewhat less pot-holed road from Longido (west of Arusha town).

Lake Natron is home to a beautiful alkaline lake and hosts a huge population of pink flamingos that make the waters appear sunset-pink from afar. The small town, Engare Saro, offers a lovely waterfall hike and the opportunity to learn first-hand about the Maasai culture. Also, just outside of the town limits are ancient footprints that have drawn the attention of the likes of National Geographic and historical researchers. It is also the site of Tanzania’s active volcano, Ol Doinyo Lengai, or the “Mountain of God” for the local Maasai tribe.

A photo of Ol Doinyo Lengai — Ol Doinyo Lengai.
Photo by Ree Pashley

Reaching Lake Natron is an adventure in itself, driving over lava-carved ravines and passing an enormous crater called ‘The Hole of God” are just a few of the cool sites. Travelers are sure to spot wildebeests, gazelles, zebra, ostriches and giraffes along the way. There is a grove of acacia trees near to Engare Saro town where guests are almost guaranteed to spy a few giraffe enjoying their lunch.
The town also has a constant source of water, making it a beautiful patch of lush green in an otherwise rocky location. Camping at a site in Lake Natron is sure to be cool under the shade of trees and have an abundance of water.

But our group didn’t enjoy any of these awesome things our first night. We departed from Arusha at around 6 pm and drove straight to Lake Natron, most of the drive in the dark. We slept as best we could during the bumpy ride and set up tents in the dark, by the light of flashlights, as soon as we arrived. Then, each went to his/her tent and tried to get an hour’s nap before starting the night climb.

At midnight, we woke up and had a light dinner with lots of potent coffee to help keep us awake. Then, we drove to the foot of Ol Doinyo Lengai and started our trek in the dark.

While I’ve hiked unintentionally in the dark, it was always because a day hike went longer than expected and I descended briefly after the sun set. This was my first time ever starting a hike in the middle of the night, under complete darkness.

It was moonless and the stars, though glorious in the black sky, gave no real light for us. We marched only by the light of our headlamps, brightening just a few feet in front of us. As we trekked, we saw only a narrow patch in front of our feet, the real view of the landscape around us remained a mystery. We knew we were hiking up, but had no real idea of how steep it was, or what lay on either side of us.

And then, there was our friend, Pete*. Pete, who didn’t think he needed a jacket (though the peak of the Mountain of God is 3,000 meters above sea level), and it’s night-time. Pete, who didn’t bring a pack of any kind and thought he would just carry his water-bottle in his hand the entire climb. Pete, who didn’t bring a snack and was sure he wouldn’t be hungry, though the guide repeatedly reminded us the trek is anywhere from 9 -12 hours long. Pete, who thought his regular every-day sneakers would be sufficient on the climb. Pete, who didn’t bring a headlamp and thought he would just ‘walk with a buddy’ the entire time.

Oh, Pete!

Fortunately, I had a bike-light (the ones to put on bike handlebars while riding) and offered it to him. He tied it around his neck with a borrowed shoelace and thus hiked the entire night with this ‘necklace’ as his only source of light. Another friend shared space in their pack for Pete’s water bottle, but after four times of Pete asking him to stop so that he could get a drink, he got annoyed and told Pete he could either carry his own dang water or wait until proper rest-times to get a drink.

About half-way up the volcano, Pete realized he was actually freezing and asked if please, anyone had an extra jacket or sweater he could wear. I shared a traditional Maasai shuka with him (a type of wearable blanket), but the complaints didn’t stop. His legs were tired. He was tired.
He was annoying.

We walked on, not even really encouraging Pete, just demanding that he move, because we couldn’t leave him alone in the dark and we weren’t about to abandon our climb because he was in jeans, regular shoes and a T-shirt.

He grumbled, but he continued hiking.

View of a rainbow from above on Ol Doinyo Lengai. — Photo by Ree Pashey

Then, dawn approached: the sky lightened and we could see the incredible mountain before us, the steep incline under our feet and the breathtaking panoramic views all around; Lake Natron, shining in the distance; the green hills of Ngorongoro in the east; the lay-out of the land below, scarred by the volcano’s regular eruptions with black ravines and deep cuts in the sides of the mountain.

Soon, we were encased in a cloud, but could still make out the top of the mountain, which was very near and I reached within the hour. At this point, Pete could grumble all he wanted, I had no qualms about an adult man waiting in the early morning light on the side of the volcano if he couldn’t trek with the group.
However, fueled by much whining, Pete reached the top. And as we all sat around, resting our legs and munching the little snacks we brought, Pete realized he was actually famished and begged a hand-out of anyone willing to share.

All of his boasting was gone and he realized all of his bragging had been ridiculous.

Flowers grow in the ashes atop the mountain and active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai, in Tanzania. — Photo by Ree Pashley

Atop the volcano, we walked to the crater and I threw a few rocks in, happily announcing that when they hit the magma they would melt. Imagine: melting a rock!

We put our hands in the warm steam of active vents and wrinkled our noses at the sulfur smell all around. We learned about recent eruptions, and how the new crater had filled in over the old and was dangerous.

Our guide, a local Maasai, shared about sacred traditions connected to the mountain.

Two hikers on the volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai — How steep is Lengai? This steep.
Photo by Ree Pashley

We had to depart before the sun grew too strong and we risked hiking under its sweltering rays. There are no trees and therefore no shade on this volcano. That is why it is exclusively a night hike; trekking during the day poses a real risk of heat stroke.

We started down, carefully. The descent is more dangerous than the climb up because it is so steep. Also, at the top, climbers walk on ashes, not dirt and rocks. Ashes are very slippery and within the moisture of a cloud even more dangerous.
Some parts, I sat down and scooted on my tushy to ensure maximum control. Our guide warned because the mountain is so steep, once you start sliding it is very hard to stop.
He showed us by flicking a small rock off his hand; it rolled and bounced, spiraling without ceasing until it was out of view. We all understood, if we slipped, we might just continue spiraling until we reached the bottom.

A few brave hikers in our team headed down at a regular walking pace. I, on the other hand, went very carefully and walked a great deal ‘sideways’ for better control. It took me almost the same amount of time to climb down as it did to climb up. I wasn’t the last of our group to reach the bottom, but I reached an hour after the first climbers had arrived at the trailhead.

Photo of Ree Pashley at the top of the volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai — At the top of Lengai!
Photo by Ree Pashley

I arrived famished and very wet from walking down in a cloud. A few times the clouds opened and I caught an amazing view of the land below. All in all, I was grateful to walk in the cool, damp of the clouds with a few epic glimpses at the landscape, instead of hiking under the blistering sun.

Pete arrived safely, too. Smiling, and proud of himself. We forgot about all his whining and congratulated him on his successful climb.
I don’t know if he is going to pursue other treks in the future, but I am absolutely sure he will wear different shoes, bring a pack, and be prepared with a jacket for warmth if he does.

Climbing Ol Doinyo Lengai was a great experience and a lot of fun. It was a different sort of challenge (because of trekking at night and climbing down such a steep incline), however, Pete’s experience tells me that you do not need to be an experienced climber – or even necessarily well-prepared – in order to successfully reach the top. You just need to have determination and a good guide.

For more about climbing Ol Doinyo Lengai, check out my photos and tips and advice.

*Not his real name.