Rainy Season

This is rainy season. The sky is white and condensation hovers around our house as everything drips, drips.
The trees, balconies, the clouds all drip in a chorus of steady rain.

An hour later, the sun is shining and the grass is glistening. Yellow weaver birds hop along, looking for bugs or drinking from little puddles and several white butterflies flutter over blooming flowers. This is also rainy season.

This season of green and wet is Mr Mechanic’s favorite. He loves to watch the fields burst into life, the accelerated growth of trees and corn that seems miraculous to me. Every year I wonder how it is possible that anything in nature might grow so fast.

I, on the other hand, detest the rainy season. I quickly tire of the mud and gloom and miss waking to a sunny morning and mud-free yard. I always say I will don my raincoat and rubber boots and go out for a long walk in the rain, and, inevitably I make a cup of tea or coffee instead and stay inside with a book.
However, I simultaneously appreciate the rains because I recognize these months of constant rain bless us for the rest of the year. Most of the corn and rice and beans grown for consumption in Tanzania are produced in abundance because of this rainy season. Without it, crops would die or be meager and there would be very real problems.

I hate the rainy season, but I am also thankful for it.

Some guests actually prefer to visit Tanzania in the rainy season, which initially surprised me, but now I understand a bit better.

Here are some reasons why visitors might prefer to come to Tanzania during the April – June rains:

Mix of sun and rain – it rains often, but not non-stop. You’re sure to have sporadic sunshine and absolutely no dust. If you’ve got allergies to dust, rainy season might be the best time for you to fully enjoy this beautiful country.

Cooler weather – if you want to enjoy Africa without the strong sun and most intense heat, this is a great time of the year to visit. However, please note that some areas have bouts of humidity when the sun does show its face: Zanzibar, for example, will be humid. But, it is always humid, so that’s nothing new.

Photographers – rainy season is gorgeous! Green and lush, and remember what I said about the sun? The sunlight reflecting off of water droplets on a leaf, or an elephant stepping out of an intense green forest is some great footage! Also, last year there was a huge, clear rainbow from some angle every other day because of the weather, and who doesn’t love rainbows?

Animals – During the dry season animals may congregate around a few water-sources. But during the rains, travelers can spot wildlife in a different habitat; among trees and in tall, green grass. During dry season predators may have an easier time picking off prey at a drinking spot, but during the rains, leopards lurk in trees and cheetahs squat in savannah grasses. This gives travelers a varied experience from the typical ‘dry savannah’ perspective that is often portrayed.

Fewer tourists – because rainy season aligns with low season, there are few tourists at the parks. Travelers often share that they feel they have the whole national park, an entire lodge to themselves. Those who like a private experience or a secluded feel to their travels, rainy season may be just the ticket!

Nature – Everything grows so quickly during rainy season. Even a week-long visit in Tanzania will allow a traveler to see incredible growth in plants because of the magical mix of rain and sun. For the science-buff, nature lover or gardener, Tanzania’s rainy season offers something unique.

Heavy rain in East Africa is unlike any rain I have ever experienced. Yes, there is drizzling and showers – but the downpours, oh, the downpours are an adventure! The first time I heard this kind of rain was under a tin roof in a remote area of Northern Uganda. It was in 2006, during a time of unrest in Uganda: the LRA was active and the local tribe had been provoked in other ways and there was a real threat of war. I woke up at 4 o’clock in the morning to the loudest crashing and thundering I have ever heard. It was like twenty adults jumping up and down overhead while banging on drums. I thought it was war, I thought the world was coming to an end. I woke up in a state of total and utter fear. And then, I realized it was only rain. The heaviest downpour I’d ever experienced.
The same kind of rain is here in Tanzania as well: rivers and waterfalls crash down from the roof, lakes forming in a matter of minutes. In a span of ten minutes, the sky lets loose like a broken water main. And then the sun bursts out and an incredible rainbow arches overhead and makes everything feel like a fantasy.
It is an adventure to experience East Africa’s downpours.

Rainy season is expected, but not entirely predictable. No one knows for sure when it will start and end – March to June? April to the end of May? But it is also predictable because when the rains do start showers continue in a similar pattern. For example, last year it rained every morning, with sun in the late afternoon. This year, it has typically been raining every evening and very heavy rains through the night. Of course, some days are dreary and there are afternoon showers, too. However, it pretty consistently rains every night.

The great part is that this weather is pretty predictable and therefore travelers can be prepared. Rain boots are a great investment, and if you don’t want to pack a pair in your luggage they are affordable and easy to find in the Arusha area for less than $20 USD. A quality rain jacket is a must to include in your packing list, and consider several warm layers, as well.

I think I’m coping with this rainy season better than other years. Perhaps it is because of social distancing forcing me to stay home that the broken roads and muddy streets affect me less. Also, with nowhere to go, staying at home in my pajamas and drinking a hot cup of tea pairs pretty well with rain.
The times the sun does come out, I take full advantage! Go for a walk, soak up the rays and vitamin D, mud or not.

Also, this year Mr Mechanic and I have been good about preparing our garden and small field and we are experiencing the results of getting everything in before the rains. I have to get outdoors, rain or not, almost daily to weed my flourishing garden. Mr Mechanic pulls on rubber boots every morning and checks the fifty or so trees he planted around the property. Our field of beans and corn is doing great.
I love seeing how enthusiastic Mr Mechanic is about the rain, and perhaps his joy is rubbing off on me, even if what I feel is a distant appreciation.

The kids? Well, they all have rain boots and rain jackets, but with the cold, wet weather it’s not too much fun to play outside. However, they were all busy the weeks before helping to plant their own rows of beans, trying to plant potatoes and experimenting with strawberry seeds. I think they are enjoying their hours inside, watching Discovery Channel videos and helping make dinner.

Rainy season is partially about personal-preference, Mr Mechanic loves this time of year, but is also about perspective; I appreciate the rains and am trying to make the best of this time by tending a garden and getting outdoors when the sun makes an appearance.

If you like the weather of Ireland or Seattle, Washington, and prefer travels that are full of adventure but not full of other people, consider coming to Tanzania during the rainy season.

Ol Doinyo Lengai

The Climb

This trip was entirely organized by Mr Mechanic: transportation, tents, food, cook, and guide. He also brought a few friends who had experience climbing other major peaks in Tanzania (Mount Meru and Mount Kilimanjaro) to make it a group climb.
Thanks, Love! I had a great time because you thought of everything.

Visibility

I knew it was a night climb, but I did not expect it to be such a trust exercise!
Climbing up a steep path and only able to see as far as your headlamp can illuminate was a new experience.
Whenever we took a pause, our whole group would turn off all sources of light and stand in awe of the complete black. It was a moonless night, making the stars incredible but everything on the volcano absolutely dark.

Because it was pitch black, we couldn’t tell how far we had climbed or how much further we had to go – again, a mental push for all the climbers.

About 40 minutes before we reached the summit I could start to make out the top of the volcano, a dark rock against an increasingly lighter grey sky. Seeing the end in sight gave me motivation to push even harder and I was the first in our group to reach the top!

Okay, in all honesty, the guide was RIGHT next to me, but hung back the last few steps so I could say I was the first. He’s climbed it countless times and I wanted the bragging rights!

It was very cloudy on top, and while we reached in time for sunrise, we couldn’t see anything but white clouds. Even the crater was just a mysterious shrouded void.
But I believed the guide when he told me there was hot magma inside. I told myself “that’s faith” because I was NOT going to try and get a closer look.

We spent a short while walking around part of the crater, but it was very cold and windy on top (and we couldn’t see past the clouds), so we didn’t stay for long.
Also, keep in mind that we had been awake since midnight and it was now 7 am. Time to head back and get some sleep!

Fitness/Physical side

I loved the climb up. It was challenging and invigorating, without wiping me out. The last portion of the climb is so steep that I had to use my hands and hold on to the edges of previously melted rock and pull myself up – as a rock climber, this was awesome!
It felt like ‘scrambling’ at the end of a (rock climbing) climb.

The way down? Oh… this was the biggest challenge. Not because it was exactly hard or physically straining, but because of how steep the volcano is.
After walking UP for 6-7 hours, now you have to walk DOWN, and it uses a different set of leg muscles. And, you need to be very slow and careful, using fine balancing muscles much more than on an ordinary day.
Have you ever gone down a great deal of stairs or a descent and your legs/calves began to shake a little involuntarily?
That’s exactly it – the balancing muscles are getting a work out.
But this is a 6 hour climb down.
And you couldn’t rush it – that would mean sliding on the ash, slipping on some of the steep rock and sliding down the side of the volcano. There are a few deep gorges and huge lava-carved caverns to the sides of the trail. You do NOT want to fall down there.

At the steepest parts, I simply sat down and scooted on my butt. Safety first, people, safety first.

If you want to prepare for Ol Doinyo Lengai, do a LOT of stairs, or workout on a StairMaster to train the specific muscles used. Also, try some yoga/balancing exercises to prepare your legs for the descent.

I only felt the altitude at the very end; this is not a climb that you need intensive cardio training to prepare for high altitudes. Stairs and steep hills are your best bet to get your legs strong and get you to the top.

Advice

  • Hiking shoes with GREAT tread
    The poor guy who walked in front of me wore basketball shoes. He made it up the volcano, but he did double the work because every three steps he would slip one step back and have to repeat that lost step.
  • Rain jacket
    We were inside a cloud the entire way down. I couldn’t tell if it was just the moisture of the cloud or actual drizzling, but either way, we all got wet, and you do not want to be soaking wet for hours, that’s not comfortable.
    Someone in our group brought an umbrella – that’s just not practical, folks; you are hiking a volcano, not walking to the market.
  • Gloves – x2
    I just brought a pair of simple gardening gloves with rubberized grips along the palms. They were perfect for the end of the climb when I needed to grip rocks or solidified ash to make my way up.
    These gloves got very dirty and wet, which was fine because I packed a second pair of simple warm cotton gloves, so when we were shivering in the wind and cold on top, I put on my second pair of gloves and my hands felt nice and warm.
  • Double-layer your pants.
    I had been warned about the climb down, so I prepared with a pair of exercise leggings underneath my hiking pants. Scooting down was much, much easier with the extra layer!
  • Walking sticks
    This is a personal preference thing, do you like hiking with sticks? go for it! I personally did not like hiking up with them and after the first few minutes collapsed them and strapped them to my pack.
    However, on the way down, I used one walking stick like a little cane and boy did that ‘third leg’ effect help! It really made balancing on the way down easier. I didn’t see anyone in our group climbing down with two sticks, though, we all used the method of just one walking stick for balance.
  • Aim for a group of 5 or less.
    We went with a group of 7, and it felt too big for my taste. The guide had to ask us to stop several times for the rest of our group to catch up. On the way down, with the dense clouds, we also had to pause a few times to ensure everyone was present and safe.
    I think 4 people or less, plus a guide is a great number.
  • Bring Snacks!
    I did this. I packed banana chips, an apple, and some cookies. But no one else in our group did. Except, the guide, who pulled out a foil-wrapped roast goat leg and started hacking off bits of it with his machete.
    YIKES!!!
    He offered to share with me, but roasted goat is not my idea of a midnight snack.
    But get this: the rest of our group just expected to wait until we returned to the campsite at MIDDAY.
    I couldn’t just eat in front of everybody, so I shared my little snack. Unfortunately, Jesus didn’t multiply it to feed the whole group and have leftovers remaining, so I was ravenous by the time we returned to camp. That whole hangry thing, you should avoid that.
    Next time, I am bringing snacks for everybody. And everyone in the group helps to carry them up, and then there will be enough for us all to have a little picnic up top.
Me, afraid of the guide’s machete, and our guide, eating his goat leg.

Ol Doinyo Lengai is a fascinating volcano and has been under research for years. It is the only volcano in the world that spews natro-carbonatite lava, and recently discovered sites around Lake Natron have revealed more information about volcanoes, lava and the life of early man, but that’s for another post, another day!
See more photos of our climb here.

Read more information about Ol Doinyo Lengai at the links below:
Al Jazeera Video
Smithsonian Institute Volcanism Progam’s Report
Volcano Discovery Page